First, when to go. As perfect as Positano is, the weather is not always perfect. Mid-May to mid- June is probably the ideal time to go. By August, it gets very hot and even the locals take out of the region and often don't return until September which may cause some shops and restaurants to be closed. Also, late June to August brings the crowds along with the heat. High season is considered to be the end of May until the end of September where hotel prices will reflect the high season. Cold snaps will start coming in late October and continue through mid-May. November is the rainiest month, but warm, sunny days are not uncommon. January is the most quiet month and many places are closed.
Seasonal flights during high season are best into Naples and then Rome during off-season. Getting to Positano during high season is accessible by car, bus, train or ferry. Ferry service may not operate on a daily basis during off season.
The seaside town of Positano is located along the Amalfi Coast and is perched on the side of the Lattari Mountains.. The Amalfi Coast has an incredibly scenic coastal road, the SS163, otherwise known as the Amalfi Drive which is said to be the world's finest with a festival of hairpin turns and majestic views of the Mediterranean. The SS163 soars above Positano's steep stairways and beaches before heading out to other towns dotting the coastline to the east. Don't drive yourself because you will never get to enjoy the views because you will be too busy navigating the sharp curves, steep drops, narrow roads filled with speeding trucks and buses. If your budget allows hire a driver from Benvenuto Limos at www.benvenutolimos.com who will escort you in a mercedes via Rome and pleasantly offer up a lot of information about the region. Also, your hotel is a great resource for arranging a driver to meet you and drive you to Positano.
If Positano weren't fabulous enough, its location along the Amalfi coast allows you easy access by several ways of transportation to the whole Amalfi coast for day trips. You are a short hydrofoil ride from Amalfi, Sorrento and the isles of Capri and Ischia. And, Ravella, Pompeii, Nerano and Salerno are just a short distance up the road. Naples can be accessed by hydrofoil or 90 minutes by car.
To truly appreciate the Amalfi coast, you must see it by sea. The hydrofoils are a good way to get a good glimpse of the coast, but you need to take a boat ride along the coast to truly soak in the sharp-shooting cliffs coming out of the sea with houses and hotels tetering along the edges of the cliffs.
Fresh mozzarella di bufala, linguine alle vangole (linguine with clam sauce), limoncello, calamari fritti, pizza, pescato del giorno (catch of the day), olives and bounties of fresh fish and pasta...Positano is brimming over with little ristoranti and cafes. You really can't go wrong anywhere you go to eat there. Some of my favorites include:
Ristorante Da Adolfo, 40 Via Laurito
Where their specialty is grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves. Reachable only by boat. Five minutes from Positano for lunch. Boat leaves Positano on the 1/2 hour until 1:00p.m. and first boat returns at 4:00p.m. www.agriturismosantalfonso.it
Donna Rosa
97-99 Via Montepertuso
At Donna Rosa, Mom's in the kitchen and the daughter waits on tables. You will feel like they adopted you when you leave.
La Cambusa
5 Piazza A. Vespucci
A fabulous setting in the center of town on a terrace with perfect water views. Everyone in the village can point to it. Try the Ravello Rosso (wine).
La Sponda
The restaurant in the Le Sirenuse Hotel where you will not only enjoy a fabulous meal, but the views are breathtaking. A very romantic restaurant at night with candle votives lit everywhere.
Trattoria e Pizzeria da Meme'
8 Salita Marino Sebaste
Pancetta and mushroom pizza along with a glass of wine. Ahhh....
The restaurant inside Il San Pietro Hotel
Sublime views of the Amalfi coast make it the perfect lunch spot at this indoor/outdoor restaurant.
Chez Black
Via del Brigantino
Request a water-front table for prime people watching. Wonderful pizza, pasta and seafood along the beachfront piazza at Fomillo Beach. The great food is the bonus you get while taking in the sights!
Next 2
242 Viale Pasitea
A hidden gem in Positano with an all-white dining room and bar, a vine-covered courtyard lit by bucket candles on every table serving up delightful food such as a fish and vegetable tempura, smoked tuna with zucchini and mozarella along with rare local bottles of wine.
Da Gino
4 Vicolo Rosini
It's famous for tonnarelli alla chitarra which is handmade pasta with a sauce of olive oil, pancetta, onions, mushrooms and peas. Someone grab me a table quick!
Ristorante Le Tre Sorelle
Via Del Brigantino
Right on the beach with breathtaking views. A great back-up place to go if you can't get into Chez Black because they are next door to each other. Try the clams or the calamarata (pasta and calamari).
O'Capurale
12 Via Regina Giovanna
Excellent seafood and and fun atmosphere make it a local favorite.
Shopping
Positano is popular for its beachwear, casual clothing, embroidered tablecloths, handmade sandals and pottery. Positano's main area for shopping is along Via dei Mulini but there are plenty of small shops and boutiques along the town's steep streets. Be sure to invest in a sturdy backpack or bag on wheels to transport your goods as you climb the steps of Positano. Handmade, customized sandals are all the rage at Don Ciccillo, 6-8 Viale Pasitea. Umberto Caro on Via Pasitia sells locally-made pottery with rich, vibrant colors. They specialize in ceramic dishes and cookware. Angelo Fusco is a jewelry store in town specializing in cameos and and coral jewelry.
Above the town, walk the mountain paths and be sure to stop in a tiny trattoria for mozarella roasted on lemon leaves.
Take the bus to Montepertuso, a village perched at 1,000 feet where there's a hole in the mountain. It's an easy and scenic walk back into Positano.
Tomorrow we will explore the beautiful hotels of Positano!
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